Tuesday, August 11, 2009

I Now Pronounce You, A Baker - Chocolate Almond Cake


I have never professed to be a baker. 

I am a cook.

There is a difference. 

Oh, I've tried my hand at various baked items. Pies, cakes, cookies, tarts... and I've had mixed results and mixed reviews. 

Until now. 

Julia Child's Chocolate Almond Cake with Chocolate Butter Frosting. Oh. My. God. 



By the way, Chocolate Butter Frosting is not to be confused with Chocolate Buttercream Frosting, no sir-ree missy (or mister).. this is chocolate, plus butter, plus technique. 

I won't list the recipe here... as there would be way too many copyright infringements. But I'll tell you where you can get it (without buying the book). 

Go here. Julia Child's Chocolate Almond Cake with Chocolate Butter Frosting  (as seen in the movie, Julie & Julia)

Get this recipe. Make it. Eat it. Fall in love. 
Screw the calories, cholesterol, time, whatever. This is worth the splurge. 

Tell them The Good Cook sent you. 



Bounty and Pasta with Fresh Tomatoes and Herbs



Everywhere I go these days I am reminded of the bounty of the season. 

Road side stands are bursting with tomatoes, melons, corn, peaches, squashes and berries of all variety.

My own garden has been gifting me daily with all manner of produce. 

The tiny plants and seeds I set out a few months ago are now large and heavy with produce. 



This has shifted my cooking focus from French, Italian and Bistro to: what can I make with with all this stuff before I have to can, freeze or give it away?

The following pasta recipe is quick, healthy and beautiful when plated. An added benefit is that it won't heat up your kitchen in these dog days of August.  I think you'll enjoy, 

Penne with Fresh Tomatoes and Herbs: serves 4

1 pound penne or cavatelli pasta
1 pound tomatoes - any variety, preferably homegrown or farm bought. (I used a combination of red and yellow grape tomatoes because that's what I had the most of)
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons fresh herbs, minced (rosemary, parsley and thyme work well together)
3 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Freshly grated Parmesan for passing

Set your pot to boiling for the pasta. Add salt to the boiling water and cook according to manufacturer's suggestion. 

Meanwhile, warm the olive oil in a small saute pan. When oil is hot, add garlic and saute just until aromatic. Turn off heat and add  1/2 the fresh herbs, set aside. 

Seed and dice your tomatoes over a small bowl to catch the juices. (discard seeds, add diced tomatoes to bowl) Add fresh herbs and balsamic vinegar. Toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 




Drain pasta, Toss with garlic, herb and olive oil mixture. 

Plate pasta and pass tomato, herb and vinegar combo to top pasta with. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and enjoy! 

Simple, colorful and all about the bounty of the season. 

A Cook's Notes: This is a great, light vegetarian meal. If you are feeding hungry teenage boys they will not be amused. I added a Caesar salad and barbecued chicken breast to their plates and they were duly sated (for a few hours anyway) 




Monday, August 10, 2009

Julie & Julia and Sabayon on Fresh Peaches



I LOVED THIS MOVIE. 

Big surprise, right? Moi? Loving a movie about cooking? Go figure.

Seriously, this is one good movie. Meryl Streep plays Julia Child dead on. She does a beautiful job without parody (which is easy to do of Child). Of course Amy Adams is just cute. AND she has tantrums in the kitchen... who among us hasn't done that?? 

The Best Husband In The World even liked the movie (but he is a foodie at heart.. or is that stomach?)

Anyway, I was inspired to come home and cook. A lot. All week. We'll see what churns out of the kitchen, but for the moment I had to make a sabayon which is not French at all, but Italian. But I know Julia Child would not mind as she is the original foodie. 

A client of mine wants to have sabayon for dessert at an upcoming dinner party that I am preparing. I haven't made sabayon since cooking school so I decided I better whip some up just to test the ingredients and old whisking skills. 

Traditionally, sabayon is made with sweet wine but I wanted to test a liquor - Cointreau to be exact. I was looking for an orange scent to compliment peaches - which are in season right now and I just happened to pick some up at a roadside stand yesterday.

All I can say is Viva la Sabayon avec Cointreau. 

Cointreau Scented Sabayon with Fresh Peaches: Serves 6-8

4 egg yolks 
1/2 to 3/4 cup sugar (depending on the sweetness of your fruit)
1/2 cup Contreau or other orange flavored liquor
1/4 cup whipping cream
mint sprigs for garnish

You will need two bowls. A small bowl that will fit inside a large bowl filled with ice. 

In a medium sauce pan, place egg yolks, sugar and Contreau. Place over extremely low heat and begin whisking. Continue whisking and cooking over very low heat until eggs are pale yellow and volume is doubled. Mixture will begin to thicken. DO NOT OVER HEAT. Every now and then, remove from heat and whisk off heat. Return to stove and continue whisking and cooking... until thick. This will hurt your arm and test your patience but it is worth it. 

When thick, pale and barely warm (body temperature) remove from pan and strain into your small bowl to remove the chalazae (kuh-Lay-zee) that is the thick, cord like white "umbilical" from the yolk, you know what I mean. This will insure an absolutely satiny, smooth sauce. 

Place the small bowl in the large bowl filled with ice and continue beating the eggs. At this point you can switch to a hand mixer. When the eggs begin to feel cold, add the heavy cream and continue to whip until very thick, cold and pale. 

You can make this sabayon two days in advance. 

To serve:

Wash your fresh peaches (or strawberries or whatever you want). 

Slice peaches in half, remove pit. Slice peach halves into 1/4 to 1/2 inch slices. 

Spoon a small pool of sabayon onto dessert plate. Arrange a 1/2 of peach worth of slices in a spiral near the base of your sabayon pool. Drizzle a little more sabayon onto the slices, garnish with mint sprigs. 

BON APPETITE! 




Friday, August 7, 2009

There's A Zucchini In My Mailbox and Chocolate Chip Zucchini Cookies


Ah, August. Hot and humid days followed by hot and humid nights. 

Perfect conditions to push that zucchini crop over the edge. The road side stands are full of zucchini at practically give away prices. 

Around my house, if I leave for more than 10 minutes it is an open invitation for a neighbor to sneak over with a basket of their surplus. I usually find them in my mailbox. 

I do the same thing - empty driveway next door? Run on over with a few cucumbers and a zucchini or two. It's a good thing there is no mental illness in the neighborhood, this kind of behavior could set off an episode or two. Then again, sneaking around, hiding produce at unsuspecting neighbor's homes isn't exactly the stuff of sanity.... 

(I'm pretty sure they know when it's me, as I usually tape a recipe or two to my produce)

Anyway, here’s a yummy way to get one more recipe out of your stock of squashes. Don’t tell the kids (in my case TBHITW) there is zucchini in these cookies and they’ll never figure out when they ask for “just one more” why you give in so easily.

Chocolate Chip Zucchini Cookies* (or how to fool a nine year old [or TBHITW] into eating zucchini)

You will need for two dozen cookies:

1 egg beaten

½ cup butter, softened

½ cup brown sugar

1/3 cup honey

1 tablespoon vania extract

Beat in a small bowl and set aside.

 In another bowl, combine:

1 cup white flour

1 cup whole wheat flour (or use all white flour)

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon cinnamon

¼ teaspoon nutmeg.

Blend into the wet ingredients until thoroughly mixed. Then stir in:

1 cup finely shredded zucchini

12 ounces chocolate chips

Drop by spoonful onto greased baking sheet and flatten with the back of your spoon. Bake at 350 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes.

Remember, mums the word on the ucchini-zay.

 * From Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

A Day Off With A Friend and Beach Sandwiches


Summer.

Living near the beach.

A good friend.

A gorgeous summer  day. The sun is shining. The temperature is hovering around 87 degrees. No humidity. And a refreshing, slight breeze.

The youngest is at camp for another 3 days. The middle girl is at film camp in New York City. The 19 year old has to work. TBHITW is "in the field" all day. 

My good friend Anne is in the same boat as me. Kids all scattered with their own activities, husband working in the city all day. What's a girl to do?

We are heading for a girl's day off - down the shore. I am in charge of packing lunch. 

Beach Sandwiches: (serves 2)

Two ciabatta rolls
4 ounces deli sliced roasted low fat turkey
2 slices provolone cheese (25% reduced fat)
hand full of mixed baby greens
1 home grown tomato, sliced
1 avocado, sliced
drizzle of non fat italian dressing 

Assemble sandwich by splitting rolls. Pile cheese, then turkey, then tomato, then greens, drizzle of italian dressing, topped by avocado slices, then top of roll. Wrap tightly in foil. This will insulate and protect your sandwiches. 

Tip: Freeze a couple of water bottles and use them as your beach drink and ice packs. The water will slowly melt - keeping your drink ice cold and refreshing on a hot beach AND keeping your picnic beach lunch cold AND dry. 

Sides: a bag full of sliced cucumbers, two bags 100 calorie pack chips, two peaches, two 100 calorie pack cookies. Voila - lunch and snacks for two. 

Hey - even Good Cooks need a day off. 


Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Cotes de Porc Sauce Nenette [Pork Chops with Mustard, Cream and Tomato Sauce


Before I jump into a recipe from Julia Child's "Mastering The Art of French Cooking" let me tell you something about cooking. 

You may or you may not already know this. 

Here I go:

A recipe is a suggestion. A subtle guideline of ingredients and flavors. You should always feel free to substitute an ingredient with another if:
a. you do not have the suggested item
b. you do not like the suggested item
c. the item is not available

With that said, some ingredients cannot be substituted and the result remain the same. For instance, you cannot substitute milk for the cream in this sauce recipe. Now technique can never be substituted. Great cooks have great technique. Period. AND the best ingredients will NEVER replace great technique. 

Okay, now let me climb down from my soap box before I hurt myself and let's get to today's recipe. I made this for dinner last night and my family, because their mouth's were so full of this goodness, were speechless. 

This is one of the quickest, easiest ways to create an unbelievable rich, aromatic, flavorful sauce for pork (with ingredients you probably already have in your pantry) I highly recommend it for chicken too AND The Best Husband In The World asked for the left over sauce to be served over a little pasta tonight (as a side dish).... YUM. 

Cotes de Porc Sauce Nenette* (Pork Chops with Mustard, Cream and Tomato Sauce)
page 387, Mastering The Art of French Cooking by Julia Child. Copyright 1968

* Julia suggests you cook the pork chops according the her master recipe for chops. I happened to have a pork tenderloin, not chops (remember what I said about recipe suggestions?)

Okay: here is how I cooked the tenderloin: (this is what it looked like after searing. Before I put it into the oven, I put it back into an oven proof skillet)



Preheat Oven to 400 degrees F.

1 tablespoon panko bread crumbs
1 tablespoon dijon mustard
1 pork tenderoin (or 4 pork chops, boneless)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Take the tenderloin (or pork chops) out of fridge 1 hour before. Smear the pork with mustard, roll in panko. Heat the oil in an oven proof skillet or shallow roasting pan until almost smoking, add tenderloin, top side down. Sear until panko is crisp and brown. Turn over and immediately place in oven. Oven sear for 20-30 minutes until meat registers 150 degrees F. Remove from pan and tent. Pour off any grease from pan and reserve pan (do not wash it!!!)

While the pork is cooking, you will make the Sauce Nenette (Mustard, Cream and Tomato Sauce)

1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon salt
pinch pepper
1 tablespoon dry mustard
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons fresh chopped basil, chervil or parsley (I used tarragon, because I love it and have a huge amount growing in my herb garden)

Simmer the cream, salt and pepper in a small saucepan for 8 to 10  minutes, or until it has reduced to 1 cup.
Beat the mustard and tomato paste together with a whisk in a small bowl, then beat in the hot cream. Set aside.
Now get that pan you cooked the pork in. The one you did not wash. Heat the pan with the reserved brown bits (fond) from the cooked meat, add the cream and simmer for 3 or 4 minutes. correct the seasoning (taste it, add salt and pepper if needed). Stir in the herbs. Serve on the side or poured over the chops or sliced tenderloin.

*Any errors in this recipe are mine, Not Ms. Childs.

Tomorrow: Coq Au Vin!!! 




Saturday, August 1, 2009

The Camper


My youngest bouncing baby boy is off at summer camp for the past week. 

The camp is very progressive and allows parents to log on to their website everyday where you can view photos of all the day's events and activities. You can also email your camper and your message of love and home is delivered every morning at mail call. 

Last year I was so pleased to see the boy in a rousing game of soccer - outside, enjoying the fresh air in the pouring down rain. Covered from head to toe with mud he was almost unrecognizable among the other 20 or so teenagers caked with all manner of goo. Ah, summer camp, good clean fun. 

I have been very diligent in emailing the boy every evening. News from home, funny little antidotes about what we're doing, how we miss his red hair and smiling face and once or twice a mere suggestion for him to call home. You know, just to check in. I even sent one from the dog ending it with a "you should call mom" not so subtle hint. Just one phone call... won't take but a few minutes.. it has been more than a week....

Imagine my delight when I received a postcard from the boy in the mail this very morning. 

This is the actual / factual contents of the postcard:

Front of card: that's my youngest in the back row in the green shirt. He and the other boys are members of the Owasa Tribe. 
The camp gives all the campers tribe names. How clever is that?
Don't they look like fine, upstanding young men? 
I especially like how one of them seems to be strangling another while the rest of the boys seem oblivious to the mayhem around them. 
Check out the boy in the back with the black t-shirt, on the end next to Zach.. he's probably thinking of his super high SAT scores and trying to decide between Harvard and Yale... ahem.

Oh, and don't you just love the expression on my son's face... can you just imagine he is thinking, "WTF".. only of course my son would never think that... ahem ahem. (click on the picture to enlarge so you can get a really good look at the faces...)


My child's message on the back of the postcard, in his very own best penmanship:

Dear Mother Dearest and Father James,

I am having a wicked, ghastly time at camp. My counselor's name is Ajax and he is from Europe and some other place I cannot pronounce.
I met a person named Omar and we became lifelong friends. My cabin is better than sleeping in the car and I get to sleep in the shower so that is great. 
We had our first meal in the dining hall and I must say the food was delicious, almost as terrific as bug repellent
Tomorrow we get to do our first activities and I have chosen sky diving and learning how to operate heavy machinery. I can't wait! 
When you get a chance, please send me an escape vehicle. I miss you and will see you soon.

Love, Zachy.

He really should have just phoned. 

PS. In honor of Julie & Julia the new movie starring Meryl Streep and Amy Adams (it's really about my long-time heroine, Julia Child) I am dedicating the next few weeks to recipes from Julia Child's famous book (the book that started it all folks): How To Master The Art of French Cooking... 

Hold on to your spatulas it's going to be rip-roaring food fest! In the immortal words of Julia Child, BON APPETITE! 

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